Program # 1
Khan-Tengri 7010m, 21 days


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Khan-Tengri peak.
It's possible to carry out an ascent from South Inylchek and from North Inylchek. South variant starts from the base camp, North variant starts from the North camp. After the first ascent in 1931 (M.Pogrebezky), climbers have used more than 10 difficult routes from all four sides. But they haven't exhausted all the opportunities. The program includes an ascent along the classical safest route - along the west edge of the Semenovsky glacier. The necessary help will be given to those who have some difficulties.


The usual tactic which is used on the classical route from South:

  • 6 km crossing of the South Inylchek glacier, ascending 200 m to "Shubin's stop" bivouac (4300 m);

  • Along the narrow and steep Semenovsky glacier you should ascent to the upper mould and at the altitude of 5800m under the west column pitch the camp 1. After 2 nights and 6200-6500m ascents you should descend to the base camp. After the rest day there are 1-2 days of ascent to the camp 1 with the new baggage for high altitude camps. It is necessary to start early in the morning in order to avoid avalanches that are more probable in the middle of the day;
  • Reaching the altitude of 6300-6400 m and pitching the camp 2;
  • Ascent 300 m and pitching the camp 3 under the summit at the altitude of 6700 m;
  • During the day you should reach the summit and descend to the camp 3. The way from the seeds goes along the rocks with good ledges and on snow and ice fields. It is recommend to hand up by the fixed ropes on the most dangerous places (about 280 m);
  • Descent to the camp 2 and then to the camp 1;
  • Descent to the base camp.

: карта пути :

Size of the group is not limited.

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